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Need help decoding skin care ingredients?

Ever felt overwhelmed by the dizzying array of skincare options you see on social media or at the store? Here’s a rundown of some common skincare ingredients to help you feel more informed and perhaps enhance your skincare discussion with a health professional.

Consider asking a GP or dermatologist for professional advice.



What are active skincare ingredients?

An active ingredient in skincare is an ingredient that is biologically active, which means it influences your skin. The level of active ingredients varies from one product to another. Some products with ‘active ingredients’ can be purchased over the counter and generally have limited effect beyond supporting the overall natural health of the skin, while others are available by prescription only. Below are some examples of skincare ingredients you may have come across in topical products (products you apply to your skin).

Retinoids

Topical retinoids are derived from vitamin A. They can be used to treat a range of skin conditions, including sun damage. Skincare products containing retinoids can come in different forms such as creams, lotions, gels and serums. Retinoids work by helping to increase skin regeneration and collagen production. (Collagen is a key component of the skin, which provides strength and elasticity to the skin.) Retinoids have been shown to help reduce the signs of sun damage, such as fine wrinkles and hyperpigmentation, and improve skin texture. Higher-strength products are generally only available with a prescription from a GP or dermatologist. A drawback of retinoids is that they may cause skin irritation and sun sensitivity. To minimise these effects, the product is usually applied at night and a sunscreen used in the daytime. Some topical retinoids should not be used in pregnancy.

Niacinamide

Also known as nicotinamide, niacinamide is derived from vitamin B3. It is being increasingly studied in relation to different skin conditions.

Vitamin C

Vitamin C or ascorbic acid is a popular skincare ingredient. However, just because an off-the-shelf product has vitamin C doesn’t mean it have any impact on your skin. This is because vitamin C is highly unstable when exposed to heat, light or air. Also, some products may have too low a concentration of vitamin C or have a form of vitamin C that cannot be easily absorbed by your skin. In an effective formulation though, vitamin C may support the general health of the skin. 

Vitamin E

Vitamin E, also known as alpha tocopherol, is widely used in skincare products, sometimes in combination with vitamin C. It is also an antioxidant and works with vitamin C. However, there is still a lack of research on the dose and benefit of vitamin E in skincare.

Hyaluronic acid

Hyaluronic acid is naturally found in your skin as well as your joints and eyes. One of its roles in the skin is to provide hydration. However, through normal ageing and photoageing, the body’s store of hyaluronic acid gradually reduces. Some topical skincare products use hyaluronic acid to support the skin’s natural hydration. However, it is likely that topical hyaluronic acid can only provide hydration on a surface level rather than deep within the skin.

Alpha-hydroxy acids (AHAs)

Alpha hydroxy acids or AHAs are frequently referred to as “fruit acids” as many are derived from natural fruit sources. Examples of AHAs are glycolic acid from sugarcane, lactic acid from milk, citric acid from citrus fruits, and tartaric acid from grapes. AHAs may help with supporting the appearance of the skin. They work by encouraging exfoliation – the natural process of shedding of skin cells from the outer layer of the skin to be replaced by fresh skin cells. AHAs can be found in facial peels, which involves application for a few minutes before washing off, and in leave-on products such as serums. There are different strengths of AHAs: generally, higher-strength products are only available through health professionals while lower-strength products may be found off the shelf.

Beta hydroxy acids (BHAs)

Like AHAs, BHAs also support natural skin exfoliation. The most well-known BHA is salicylic acid, which can be found in products to unclog pores in people with oily skin, and in registered medicines to treat acne.

Poly hydroxy acid (PHAs)

PHAs are considered a new generation of AHAs. Examples of PHAs are lactobionic acid, galactose, and gluconic acid. As with AHAs, PHAs are also used to provide support for the appearance of the skin; however, they are thought to be gentler than AHAs so may be more suitable for people with sensitive skin.

Hydroquinone

Hydroquinone is a skin lightening agent used to improve hyperpigmentation and melasma (dark patches on the face usually triggered by hormonal changes or sun exposure). Hydroquinone works by reducing the production of melanin, which is the main skin pigment. In NZ hydroquinone is only available on prescription from a healthcare professional.

Which skincare ingredients are right for me?

There are many ingredients found in skincare, so it can be hard to know which work, and which are right for you. When considering changing your skincare, don’t buy into the hype about the latest must-have product. Instead, get qualified advice from your healthcare professional about which skincare ingredients may help with your skin concerns.

NZ-2025-09-0014. NP23560. Prepared October 2025. 




References

  1. Therapeutic Goods Administration. Ingredient basics. https://www.tga.gov.au/how-we-regulate/ingredients-and-scheduling-medicines-and-chemicals/ingredients-therapeutic-goods/ingredient-basics (accessed August 2024).
  2. DermNet. Topical retinoids. https://dermnetnz.org/topics/topical-retinoids (accessed August 2024).
  3. Armour K. Cosmeceuticals to address cutaneous photoageing. Opin Prog Cosmet Dermatol 2022;2(1):8-12.
  4. Milosheka D, Roškar R. Use of retinoids in topical antiaging treatments: A focused review of clinical evidence for conventional and nanoformulations. Adv Ther 2022;39(12):5351-75.
  5. Australasian College of Dermatologists. Cosmeceuticals. https://www.dermcoll.edu.au/wp-content/uploads/2021/05/Cosmeceuticals-A-Z-of-Skin.pdf (accessed August 2024).
  6. DermNet. Nicotinamide. https://dermnetnz.org/topics/nicotinamide (accessed August 2024).
  7. Talakoub L et al. Antiaging cosmeceuticals. In book: International textbook of aesthetic surgery. Springer Berlin Heidelberg 2016.
  8. DermNet. Topical vitamin C. https://dermnetnz.org/topics/topical-vitamin-c (accessed August 2024).
  9. Keen MA, Hassan I. Vitamin E in dermatology. Indian Dermatol Online J 2016; 7(4): 311–315.
  10. DermNet. Hyaluronic acid implant. https://dermnetnz.org/topics/hyaluronic-acid-implant (accessed August 2024).
  11. Harvard Health Publishing. The hype on hyaluronic acid. https://www.health.harvard.edu/blog/the-hype-on-hyaluronic-acid-2020012318653 (accessed August 2024).
  12. DermNet. Alpha hydroxy acid facial treatments. https://dermnetnz.org/topics/alpha-hydroxy-acid-facial-treatments (accessed August 2024).
  13. DermNet. Salicylic acid. https://dermnetnz.org/topics/salicylic-acid (accessed August 2024).
  14. DermNet. Hydroquinone. https://dermnetnz.org/topics/hydroquinone (accessed August 2024).
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